2025 AIS-5 Quintuple Quest

Overview



In September, 2024, I hired Leo (a guy from Ghana) to help me clean out the Chalet pond.
While dragging mud out of the pond, we talked about life and I mentioned my love of motorcycle touring.
Leo asked if I had ridden in Africa and mentioned Around In Seven.
Later that evening I did a little digging and found this.

Around in Seven (AIS) @aroundinseven



Around In Seven(AIS) is a 7 day nationwide tour from Jan 10-Jan 16, 2023. Riders are touching each of the 16 regions visiting major tourist attraction sites in the various regions.
They will also do charity work by donating to hospitals in the Upper Regions to take care of medical bills of the underprivileged (¢50,000 or ~USD$3,140 in 2021).
Follow them on IG @aroundinseven.

The @motochecker Daniel Ashrifie (AKA Dan Lee, Neil Ronaldo, and "The Moto Checker") is the originator of this.

The Moto Checker

Youtube Channel

@aroundinseven

A group of motorcyclists who go on a 7 day nationwide tour around the beautiful country called Ghana on adventure motorcycles.

We highlight Road Safety Advocacy, Charity & Interesting Tourist Sites.

We also have plans of touring neighboring countries also in 7 days.

Past AIS routes

Around In Seven first ran in 2021 and has run every year since. In past years, they have ridden around Ghana for seven days, but this year they plan to ride for fourteen days to Senegal and back.
AIS-1 2021
AIS-2 2022
AIS-3 2023
AIS-4 2024
AIS-5 2025 upcoming, Accra to Dakar

2024 AIS Route


Route part 1: video 1     map 1
Route part 2: video 2     map 2
Total AIS-4 (2024) route was 52hrs (7.5 google hrs/day) 2542km (363km/day) avg speed 49 kph
Waypoints extracted from those two Instagram video clips

  1. Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park & Mausoleum, Accra, Ghana
  2. SO Energy Filling Station, Alajo St, Accra, Ghana
  3. Rock City Hotel, Agogo-Mpraeso Rd, Nkwatia, Ghana
  4. Lake Bosomtwe, Ghana
  5. Macoba Luxury Apartments, Agyapongmaah Street, Kumasi, Ghana
  6. Boabeng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary, Boabeng, Ghana
  7. Kintampo Waterfalls & Fuller Waterfalls, just after falls rest stop on the kintampo-tamale highway, Kintampo, Ghana
  8. Yakam Hotel, Kintampo, Ghana
  9. Royal Cosy Hills Safari Resort, Jirapa, Ghana
  10. Ganass Hotel, Bolga Stadium, Tamale Rd, Bolgatanga, Ghana
  11. Tongo Hills and Tengzug Shrine, Yinduri, Ghana
  12. Nim Avenue Hotel, Tamale, Ghana
  13. Mognori eco village (Latif's eco tours), Mognori, Ghana
  14. Eusbett Hotel, Sunyani - Berekum Rd, Sunyani, Ghana
  15. Maaha Beach Resort, Near Ghana Gas Ltd, Elonyi, Ghana
  16. Cape Three Points, Ghana
  17. Fort Metal Cross, TortoisePath.com, Dixcove, Ghana
  18. back to Accra

Oct 6 conversation on WhatsApp

With Kathi's help, I contacted @MotoChecker on Instagram and had a conversation with Daniel Ashrifie.
7pm
Hi, I'm Chris Uhlik. My friend Leonid Adotey Brown Maclean from Ghana told me about AIS.
I reached out to you via my wife's Instagram account.
I look forward to joining your AIS 2025 trip.
Where can I find information like the dates, approximate route, etc?

11:30pm
Hi Chris.
Good to hear.


Route:
IN: Ghana - Burkina - Mali - Senegal 57 hr, 3298 km, (8+ hrs and 470 km/day)
OUT: Senegal - Mali - Ivory Coast - Ghana 48 hr, 2974 km (7 hrs and 425 km/day)

Daniel Ashrife is calling this ride, the "Quintuple Quest" as it visits five countries in 2 weeks.

Average speed while moving: 60 kph which implies a lot of highway driving and some pretty long days

11:32 PM
Wow, that looks amazing.
I'd like to learn a bit more about your group. Are you a commercial touring company, group of friends riding together, charitable organization, ...?
Do you have dates for the ride?
I'll also need to arrange a bike.  Ideally I could rent from someone or some company you recommend.  But I could also buy a bike if I could find a way to keep it in Ghana for future visits.
11:35 PM we began a phone call

OK, now it's time to get busy finding flights, applying for visas, getting vaccinations, etc.

The Route Change

On Dec 15 news breaks about Burkina Faso, Mali, and Niger withdrawing from ECOWAS. These military dictatorships have been suspended from ECOWAS since 2021. Now, time is up and ECOWAS is telling them they are permanently rejected unless they consent to some democratic reforms. The juntas said "No", so ECOWAS is giving them 6 months grace period, then they will be officially withdrawn in June 2025.
This made Motochecker nervous about security in Burkina Faso and Mali, and he called me to discuss. We agreed to a change of route through Guinea, Sierra Leone, and Liberia. Now I need to get 3 more visas. Two of them are eVisas which should be quick, but Liberia requires another round trip of my passport to Washington DC. Again, time to get busy.

Meanwhile, Daniel publishes a new route.

Tour Promotions

Visas

I've applied for and received visas from these countries:
Country duration/entries visa process visa price + shipping
Ghana 5 yr/multiple Ghana Embassy in Washington DC $207 + 78.30
Burkina Faso 3mo/single eVisa $172.73
Mali 4 mo/multiple Mali Embassy in Washington DC $190 + TBD
Côte d'Ivoire4 mo/multiple CIV Embassy in Washington DC $261.73 + 68.30
Liberia 2 yr/multiple Liberian Embassy in Washington DC $260 + 136.60
Sierra Leone 1 yr/multiple eVisa $168.03
Guinea 1 yr/multiple eVisa $153.54
Senegal no advance visa required for Americans,
get this on at the initial border crossing
$TBD

Health and Vaccinations

Travel Health Consultations

I scheduled a consultation with Kaiser but it was a few weeks out, so I did that AND found that Costco offers a more immediate $39.95 travel consultation from SafeGard and a Yellow Fever vaccination for $182.

Here's the result: Safe Guard Health Report (pdf) 60 pages

Vaccinations


On Oct 18, I went to Costco and got the following vaccinations for $810.10:
2 weeks later, I went to Kaiser and got I declined the recommended Rabies profilactic because it makes you quite sick, is very expensive, and doesn't really do anything except buy more time for treatment if you get bitten or scratched. I plan to be very careful about exposure to potentially rabid animals.

The following were not recommended


2 weeks later, I went to Kaiser and got
6 months later, I still need to get

Medications

For Maleria prevention, I have Atovaquone/Proguanil Hcl 250-100 mg tablets (29 tablets) 1 pill daily starting 2 days prior to entering the malaria area. Take 1 pill a day while there and 1 pill a day for 7 days after leaving the area. Best tolerated if taken with a large meal.

Azithromycin 250mg for traveler's diarrhea (8 tablets) Take four tablets once daily OR two tablets twice daily for diarrhea that comes with either fever, bloody stool or both. Enough for 2 separate episodes of travelers diarrhea. If unresolved, seek medical attention.

Doxycycline is used for Maleria prevention but can also prevent some additional infections and so it may be preferred by people planning to do lots of hiking, camping, and wading and swimming in fresh water. I'll carry some Doxycycline Monohydrate (8 tablets) which I will take if I think I might have been exposed to Leptospirosis (Touching urine or other body fluids from an animal infected with leptospirosis, Swimming or wading in urine-contaminated fresh water, or contact with urine-contaminated mud, or Drinking water or eating food contaminated with animal urine) or Schistosomiasis (Wading, swimming, bathing, or washing in contaminated freshwater streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, or untreated pools.)
Take doxycycline on a full stomach with a full glass of liquid. Avoid milk and other dairy products within a couple of hours of taking a dose. Avoid lying down for 1 hour after taking doxycycline to prevent irritation in your throat. Certain antacids (containing calcium or magnesium) should also be avoided while taking doxycycline.

Med Kit

My general travel med kit also contains

Insect repellents

West Africa has several insect born diseases that are strange to North Americans.
Use DEET liberally.
Wear long sleeves and long pants.
Bring a head net and a repellent-treated bed net.
Picaridin 20%
Permethryn

Water Treatment

For safe drinking water on the trip, I'm taking

Currency and payments

</tr>
Ghana GHS Cedi 14.7/USDCashless System
Ivory Coast XOF West African Franc 629/USDCashless System, not Wise
Liberia LRD Dollar 183/USDCashUSD is also legal tender
Sierra Leone SLE Leone 22.9/USDCashOld code was SLL 1000:1
Guinea GNF Franc 8640/USDCash
Senegal XOF West African Franc14.7/USDCash

The Wise card does NOT work in these countries: Afghanistan, Belarus, Burundi, Central African Republic, Chad, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Republic of the Congo, Cuba, Eritrea, Iran, Iraq, Libya, Myanmar, North Korea, Russia, Somalia, Sudan, South Sudan, Syria, Venezuela, Yemen. And, because my card is US-issued, these additional countries/territories are denied: Bolivia, Cambodia, Cote d’Ivoire, Ethiopia, Kenya, Lebanon, Nepal, Niger, Pakistan, Paraguay, Sao Tome and Principe, Sri Lanka, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Turkmenistan, Uganda, Vietnam.
So for me, this suggests WISE should work everywhere except Cote d’Ivoire.

Internet and cellular connectivity in West Africa

Networks in West Africa include: MTN, Airtel, Orange, Globacom, and 9Mobile.

T-Mobile has a roaming agreement with 215 countries and it looks like I should have coverage in all 6 countries
though coverage will be spotty in Sierra Leone and Guinea.

Our plan has 2GB of high speed data domestically then it drops down to 256kbps and international coverage only at the low speed.
I purchased a 30 day, 15 GB high-speed data package for $50.

packing checklist

Paperwork:
* passport, visas, medical info
* USD cash
* one paperback book to read

For the bike:
* rack, top bag, straps
* small, light day backpack

Crash gear:
* Aerostich suit
* Helmet
* Boots
* Ear plugs
* Elkskin Gloves (regular)
* compression socks
* Rain gear
* glove covers
* Rain pants
* Rain jacket/ windbreaker

Clothing:
* socks and underwear for 7 days
* bathing trunks
* 2 T-shirts short sleeve + 1 T-shirt long sleeve
* jeans 1 pair (wear on the plane along with one of those T-shirts)
* walking shoes

Cold gear:
* Fleece sweater 1

Toiletries bag:
* toothbrush, tooth paste, small shampoo
* bite guard
* hair brush
* ziploc bag of emergency toilet paper
* ziploc bag of laundry detergent
* net laundry bag
* clothesline and clips
* USB charger for toothbrush

Med kit (see "Meds" below):
* aspirin
* allergy meds (sudafed)
* anti diarrheal
* cough suppressant
* water treatment: aquatabs, iodine, filter, bottles
* bug repelent: DEET, Picaridin, Permethryn for clothing
* sleeping bed net
* head net

Electronics:
* handlebar phone holder, tablet holder, cables
* extension cord with socket multiplexor and USB ports
* small laptop, charger, wireless mouse
* USB A-C cables x 2
* USB C-C cables x 2
* wireless charger
* USB power pack x 2
* prep OSMAnd with maps of planned route
* insta360, and accessories

On the plane:
* wireless headphones
* eye mask
* compression socks

Meds

Attendees

Daily Details and Naration

0) Jan 6 Mon 7:00am PDX-5h24m->JFK 3:24pm Delta 451 (47m layover)
4:20pm JFK-9h40m->ACC 7:00am+1 Delta 156
1) Jan 7 Tue arrive 7am, check into hotel, rest
2) Jan 8 Wed explore Accra, warmup ride with Daniel Ashrifie
3) Jan 9 Thu explore Accra
4) Jan 10 Fri Day 1 ride motorcycles 528 km Accra, Ghana → Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire
5) Jan 11 Sat Day 2 ride motorcycles 567 km Abidjan → Man, Côte d'Ivoire
6) Jan 12 Sun Day 3 ride motorcycles 465 km Man → Monrovia, Liberia
7) Jan 13 Mon Day 4 ride motorcycles 515 km Monrovia → Freetown, Sierra Leone
8) Jan 14 Tue Day 5 ride motorcycles 444 km Freetown → Mamou, Guinea
9) Jan 15 Wed Day 6 ride motorcycles 395 km Mamou → Labé → Koundara, Guinea
10) Jan 16 Thu Day 7 ride motorcycles 460 km Koundara → Kaolack, Senegal
11) Jan 17 Fri Day 8 ride motorcycles 215 km Kaolack → Dakar, Senegal
12) Jan 18 Sat Day 9 rest day in Dakar
13) Jan 19 Sun Day 10 ride motorcycles 496 km Dakar → Tambacounda, Senegal
14) Jan 20 Mon Day 11 ride motorcycles 458 km Tambacounda → Labé, Guinea
15) Jan 21 Tue Day 12 ride motorcycles 475 km Labé → Kissidougou, Guinea
16) Jan 22 Wed Day 13 ride motorcycles 512 km Kissidougou → Man, Côte d'Ivoire
17) Jan 23 Thu Day 14 ride motorcycles 564 km Man → Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire
18) Jan 24 Fri Day 15 ride motorcycles 528 km Abidjan → Accra, Ghana Total 6,622 km or ~4,150 miles, avg 366 miles/day.
19) Jan 25 Sat contingency day / explore Ghana / shopping
20) Jan 26 Sun contingency day / explore Ghana / shopping
21) Jan 27 Mon 10:15pm ACC-6h35m->AMS 5:50am KLM 590 (4h35m layover in Amsterdam)
22) Jan 28 Tue 10:25am AMS-10h0m->PDX 11:25am KLM 615

click a calendar day to see daily details


Note: calendar days are clickable to see each day of the trip
day 0 day 1 day 2 day 3 day 4 day 5 day 6 day 7 day 8 day 9 day 10 day 11 day 12 day 13 day 14 day 15 day 16 day 17 day 18 day 19 day 20 day 21 day 22

Where we stayed

Chronology

Oct 6, 2024First phone call with Daniel Ashrifie late at night where I got the information above
Oct 8, 2024Phone call with Daniel Ashrifie and Leo where Leo checked out Daniel for me
Oct 8--12, 2024I do intensive Internet research about Ghana, flight options, travel visas, and vaccination requirements
Oct 12, 2024I gave tentative plans to Daniel about flight plans
Oct 13, 2024After some intensive research into visa requirements for Ghana, Burkina Faso, Mali, Senegal and Côte d'Ivoire,
I need a Yellow Fever vaccination card to even apply for these visas.
I start to worry about if I have enough time to do all the back and forth
to embassies in Washington DC before the trip begins.
Oct 14, 2024I call Kaiser and schedule a travel consult to get a yellow fever vaccination, earliest available appointment is Oct 28.
Yikes, the delay is too long! I call Passport Health and find I can get a yellow fever jab immediately for... $99 + $424
I look for a cheaper vaccine and find Walgreens doesn't do it, but Costco does, for about $200
Oct 15, 2024I start following Daniel's WhatsApp Updates and learn a bit about the politics of Ghana's upcoming presidential election
Oct 15, 2024I purchase a travel health consult from SafeGard through Costco
Oct 16, 2024I contact G3Visas.com about them doing the leg work of walking my passport to each embassy.
Their fee is roughly $230 additional per country. This is getting expensive!
I start seriously gathering all required documents.
Oct 17, 2024I get the travel consult report back from SafeGard, crap I need a lot of shots!
Oct 17, 2024MotoChecker found a Tènèrè 700 for me
Now I know about visas, vaccinations, and my bike... time to commit!
I get bank info from Daniel Ashrifie.
Oct 17, 2024I buy my airplane tickets
Oct 18, 2024I call Costco, talk with the travel pharmacist and schedule my shots for 12:15pm, by 2pm, I have 6 jabs.
Oct 18, 2024I attempt to send Daniel payment for the motorcycle, but have problems sending Ghanaian Cedi. I first think
it's a 49,000 Cedi limit, but later discover that trading in both Cedi and XOF are suspended due to rule changes and volatility.
Oct 19, 2024I work with Leo all day while feeling like crap.
Oct 20, 2024Feeling much better. I spend all day working on visa applications.
Oct 21, 2024Call Côte d'Ivoire embassy about visa application problems, work with tech support, get application paid for, FedEx passport to DC.
Oct 21, 2024Pay for Burkina Faso eVisa online.
Oct 21, 2024I do lots of research about monetary transfers to West Africa, learn about dollarization of the Ghana economy.
Decide to try testing a USD $500 transfer to Daniel
Oct 22, 2024$500 test transfer succeeds.
Another phone call with Daniel. Discussed money in Ghana issues.
I send the rest ($7500) which takes only about an hour. Bike is now paid for.
Oct 22, 2024Work all day with Leo, find that Daniel lives close (~30min) to Leo's sister Anastasia in Accra.
Learn about Mobile Money restrictions.
Oct 24, 2024passport with Côte d'Ivoire visa received
Oct 26, 2024Completed Ghana application, sending by FedEx, expect 7 business days, Back near Nov 6?
Oct 26, 2024Received AIS invitation letter from Ethel K requesting 10,000 Cedi $620.90
Oct 27, 2024Paid ¢10,000 to Daniel in the form of USD $617.61
Oct 28, 2024Health consult discussion with Kaiser travel nurse
Oct 29, 2024Notification of receipt of Ghana visa application, they say it will be mailed back on Nov 5.
Oct 29, 2024Got my Hepititus A, Hepititus B, Covid, and Flu vaccines from Kaiser
Oct 30, 2024Notification of approval of Ghana visa application
Oct 30, 2024Reactivated Instagram account to help promote AIS
Nov 6, 2024Got my passport back from the Ghana Embassy with a 5yr multiple-entry visa
Nov 8, 2024Mailed my passport and documents to the Embassy of Mali
Nov 12, 2024Passport received by the Embassy of Mali
Nov 14, 2024Communication from the Embassy of Mali, they need my invitation letter and hotel reservation
Nov 15, 2024Second attempt to reserve a hotel in Mali
Nov 22, 2024Mali Embassy mailed out my passport(?)
Nov 25, 2024Passport received
Dec 6, 2024Ghana presidential elections, big day
Dec 15, 2024Mali and Burkina Faso agree to withdraw from ECOWAS, effective date is Jan 29.
Dec 15, 2024Daniel gets nervous about security in Burkina Faso and Mali, changes plan to Guinea, Sierra Leone, and Liberia
Dec 15, 2024Sierra Leone eVisa submitted
Dec 15, 2024Guinea eVisa submit attempt, charge failed, after 5 tries, changed to Wells Fargo card and succeeded
Dec 17, 2024Sent passport to Liberian Embassy in DC
Dec 19, 2024FedEx tracking says passport received from Liberian Embassy. Guinea status is still "transaction successful"
Dec 19, 2024Full route published to the AIS 5 WhatsApp group, now 15 days
Dec 20, 2024Received passport back with my Liberian visa. Discovered Guinea application was not submitted, corrected that!

Costs

DateCost Description
2024/10/15 $39.95Travel Consultation Costco / SafeGard Travel Medicine
2024/10/30 $319.05tiedown straps, tail bag, saddle bags, straps, water treatment tablets
2024/10/30 $107.99tail rack for Tenere
2024/11/01 $47.94BeFree filter and hydration bladder
2024/10/17 $1,538.61Flight Delta and KLM (includes 2×50lb bags each way)
2024/10/18 $810.10Six Vaccinations, malaria and antibiotic pills
2024/10/18 $24.91Passport photos for visas
2024/10/20 $150.00Ivory Coast visa application fee
2024/10/21 $111.73Ivory Coast visa application fee, part 2
2024/10/21 $172.73Burkina Faso visa application fee
2024/10/21 $68.30FedEx to Ivory Coast Embassy
2024/10/22 $518.95Test transfer $500 to Daniel Ashifie + transfer fee
2024/10/22 $7,518.95Motorcycle + $18.95 transfer fee
2024/10/25 $30.75Ghana FedEx return charge
2024/10/25 $207.00Ghana Visa application fee
2024/10/26 $47.55FedEx to Ghana Embassy (Sat to Monday by end of day)
2024/10/26 $636.64Future tour fee deposit 10,000 cedi to AIS $617.61 plus $18.95 transfer fee
2024/10/29 $7.72Doxycycline
2024/10/30 $427.04Tenere rack and luggage + water treatments
2024/11/06 $190.00Mali visa application fee ($185 + $5 money order)
2024/11/15 $1,523.65Tour fee balance (¢24,000 = $1,504.70 + transfer fee)
2024/12/15 $168.03Sierra Leone eVisa application fee
2024/12/15 $153.54Guinea eVisa application fee
2024/12/17 $260.00Liberia money order visa application fee
2024/12/15 $136.60FedEx to/from Liberian Embassy
2024/12/26 $83.80AAA International Driving Permit
2024/12/31 $50.0015 GB high speed data for 30 days, International
2025/01/02 $81.50icon red mesh gloves for Daniel
2025/01/03 $22.79in-truck hanger bar for Daniel
Vehicle & equipment $8,891.9858%
Tour fees / hotels $2,160.2914%
Visas & documents $1,804.9412%
flights & fares $1,538.6110%
Medical & vaccinations $905.71 6%
fuel $TBD 0%
food $TBD 0%
incidentals $153.29 1%
Overall total $15,454.82 100%

Summary

Day Actual
Distance
Elapsed
time
Break
time
%Break
time
Notes
------------------------------- arriving ----------------------------------
Tue Jan 6 275 km 9h40m 5h10m 53% Blah, blah, blah
-------------------------------motorcycle riding----------------------------------
-------------------------------totals----------------------------------
6622 km (4,150 miles) by motorcycle over 14 days


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