Chris Solo Central Europe


After the Adriatic Alsace and Black Forest Tour with Kathi, Kathi flew home early, early Tuesday morning and Chris took off for 16 more days of solo touring around Central Europe on Joe's Multistrada. The adventure was a ride of a lifetime:

Daily Details and Naration

Note: calendar days are clickable to see each day of the trip

day 0 day 1 day 2 day 3 day 4 day 5 day 6 day 7 day 8 day 9 day 10 day 11 day 12 day 13 day 14 day 15


Date Start→End Distance Elapsed
maps time
vs Google
Breaks Note Hotel
Sat Jun 3 Zug→Freising 345 km 4h31m 4h13m 4h45m -11% 7% day-0 Munich Airport Marriott, Freising
Sun Jun 4 Freising→Füssen 234 km 5h52m 3h31m 3h34m - 67% tour-2 Hotel Müller Hohenschwangau
Mon Jun 5 Füssen→Schaffhausen 282 km 9h29m 5h36m 5h38m - 69% tour-3 Vienna House Zur Bleiche
Tue Jun 6 Schaffhausen→Ribeauvillé 208 km 8h17m 3h58m 3h54m - 109% tour-4 Hotel de la Tour
Wed Jun 7 rest in Ribeauvillé 40 km 1h 1h 1h rest day Hotel de la Tour
Thu Jun 8 Ribeauvillé→Gernsbach 218 km 6h42m 2h55m 2h54m - 130% tour-6 Schloss Eberstein
Fri Jun 9 Gernsbach→Rothenburg ob der Tauber 225 km 6h49m 4h00m 3h43m +8% 70% tour-7 Hotel Reichskuchenmeister
Sat Jun 10 Rothenburg ob der Tauber→Freising 225 km 6h49m 4h00m 3h43m +8% 70% tour-8 Freising Airport Marriot
Sun Jun 11 rest in Freising 0 km rest day Freising Airport Marriot
Mon Jun 12 Freising→Přimda 453 km 9h07m 7h10m 6h19m +13% 27% day-1 Hotel V Podhradí
Tue Jun 13 Přimda→Prague 233 km 8h10m 4h10m 3h57m +5% 96% day-2 (got tires) Arkada Hotel Praha
Wed Jun 14 Prague→Ostrava 351 km 7h42m 5h59m 5h00m +20% 29% day-3 Penzion Start
Thu Jun 15 Ostrava→Košice 443 km 9h47m 7h19m 6h56m +6% 34% day-4 Resort Barca Camp Košice
Fri Jun 16 Košice→Budapest 314 km 8h12m 5h46m 4h45m +21% 42% day-5 Maverick Hostel and Apts
Sat Jun 17 Budapest→Pécs 414 km 7h45m 6h18m 5h59m +5% 23% day-6 Centrum Apartmanház Pécs
Sun Jun 18 Pécs→Belgrade 410 km 8h31m 6h29m 7h12m -10% 31% day-7 Good People Design Hostel
Mon Jun 19 Belgrade→Severin 295 km 7h23m 4h57m 5h26m -34% 49% day-8 Casa Budulan
Tue Jun 20 Severin→Sibiu 395 km 10h47m 7h46m 9h04m -14% 39% day-9 T House
Wed Jun 21 Sibiu→Braşov 348 km 9h17m 5h50m 6h40m -12% 59% day-10 (w/Daniel) Casa Postavarului
Thu Jun 22 Braşov→Satu Mare 414 km 7h33m 6h15m 6h46m -8% 21% day-11 Casa Transilvania
Fri Jun 23 Satu Mare→Bratislava 515 km 8h29m 5h59m 7h06m -16% 42% day-12 City Center Best Apts
Sat Jun 24 Bratislava→Wörthersee 407 km 7h59m 6h28m 7h04m -8% 23% day-13 Pension Wachau
Sun Jun 25 Wörthersee→Auronzo + evening loop 420 km 12h35m 7h32m 7h17m +3% 67% day-14 (long wait, then loop) Albergo Garni Barancio
Mon Jun 26 Auronzo→Strengen 330 km 7h23m 5h59m 6h20m -6% 23% day-15 Posthotel
Tue Jun 27 Strengen→Zug 214 km 5h11m 4h01m 4h22m -8% 29% day-16 stayed with Joe&Bridget

Some notes about estimating time for planning purposes

When planning these trips, I'm always worrying about getting in really late, getting tired making me ride poorly, etc. So I try hard to keep the days short enough to be enjoyable and safe and to leave at least a little time to rest and recover, find someplace to eat and maybe even walk around the destination a bit before I collapse into bed before doing it again tomorrow.
On this trip, I managed to catch a GPS track log for every day. Above, I've summarized the daily distance, elapsed time from departure to arrival, the moving time (not taking rest and photo breaks), and the time Google Maps estimated for the moving time. With this data, I can get a pretty good idea of how long a day is really going to take me for future planning purposes.

mean of solo breaks disregarding exceptions is +30%
mean of moving time vs google moving time estimate matches exactly

AMT touring, mean of moving time vs google time is just slightly slower at +3%
so that means I don't really drive much faster than the AMT tour group on average

However, AMT touring, breaks are +86% of moving time rather than +30% when solo,
so the touring group spends a lot more time on breaks even though when in a group I stop for pictures a lot less.

Overview map

You can click the hilited regions on the map to go directly to that day's ride report.

Some notes about countries

Countries I visited on this trip

              EU  Shengen  Currency
Italy         ✓   ✓        €
Germany       ✓   ✓        €
France        ✓   ✓        €
Austria       ✓   ✓        €
Switzerland   No  ✓        1 € ≈ 1 CHF
Liechtenstein ✓   ✓        1 € ≈ 1 CHF
Czechia       ✓   ✓        1 € ≈ 23.5 23.5 Kč or CZK (Czech Koruna) 
Croatia       ✓   ✓        €
Slovenia      ✓   ✓        €
Slovakia      ✓   ✓        €
Hungary       ✓   ✓        1 € ≈ 373 Forint or HUF
Romania       ✓   No       1 € ≈ 5 Leu or RON   (No visa needed)
Serbia        No  No       1 € ≈ 117 Dinar      (No visa needed)
All currencies are covered by my Wise card which worked for every purchase in every country including Serbia. There were a few places in Romania that wanted payment in cash only, but that's the only place I needed any cash. That said, having some cash euros and local currency is useful for buying stuff from roadside vendors.

The only border controls were between Serbia and Croatia, Serbia and Romania, and Romania to Hungary.
The only one I had any significant problem with was Romania to Hungary which just took an hour.
I'm not sure if he was waiting for some facilitation money or just legitimately confused by my passport stamps, but eventually the officer was satisfied and let me pass.
I had no problems with the fact that I was riding a bike registered to my Swiss-resident brother. SCHLOSS EBERSTEIN Munich Airport Marriott Hotel

Sun, Jun 4 AMT Day 1 (ride) Munich -

Munich - Füssen

Mon, Jun 5 AMT Day 2 (ride) Füssen - Lake Constance

Füssen - Lake Constance

Tue, Jun 6 AMT Day 3 (ride) Lake Constance - Ribeauville

Lake Constance - Ribeauville

Wed, Jun 7 AMT Ribeauville France rest day

Thu, Jun 8 AMT Day 4 (ride) Ribeauville - Black Forest

Ribeauville - Black Forest

Fri, Jun 9 AMT Day 5 (ride) Black Forest - Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Black Forest - Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Sat, Jun 10 AMT Day 6 (ride) Rothenburg ob der Tauber - Munich

Rothenburg ob der Tauber - Munich

Sun, Jun 11 AMT Munich/ Freising departure Deuches Museum ?

Munich finish AMT Sun Jun 11

Mon, Jun 12 Kathi flies home, Chris rides into Czechia (day1)

Kathi's flight is 7:00am out of MUC so she is dropped at the airport at 6:00am. Chris gets back to the hotel by 6:30am, eats breakfast and departs by 7:30am. Then the 7hr say 2hrs of stops for border crossing, gas, food, and pictures, would get me into the destination at 5:0pm.

Part 1 Freising to the border 3h22m 229km
Part 2 border to Hotel v Podradi in Borska 3h36m 187km
Total: 6h58m 416 km
Hotel Email sent to Hotel v Podhradi

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:47am2.9getting ready to leave
7:50am69.491 km79out of Freising an onto the highway
8:59am2.8german farms pano stop
9:02am21.026 km75
9:23am2.1unknown stop, traffic light?
9:25am13.317 km78
9:38am4.2forest road photo stop and photosphere
9:42am14.013 km56
9:56am6.5gas stop in Germany
10:03am79.384 km64
11:22am4.9chat with Kathi, selfie
11:27am27.428 km62
11:54am4.5photos on the bride in Sumava park
11:59am32.330 km56
12:31pm27.8lunch break in Kvilda
12:59pm28.926 km53
1:28pm4.1river stop and river video
1:32pm24.228 km69
1:56pm8.7gas and pee stop in Czechia
2:05pm49.051 km63
2:54pm8.2hardware store isn't a food store
3:02pm2.61 km32
3:05pm13.2COOP food store stop
3:18pm25.417 km41
3:43pm7.7stop in the woods on the dirt road/path
3:51pm43.037 km52
4:34pm3.0another woods stop
4:37pm5.86 km63
4:43pm1.9arriving at the hotel
9h07m7h10m moving453 km63.2 kph79% moving, 117 minutes of breaks

Tue, Jun 13 to Prague Czechia (day2)

into Prague 3h46m, 225km

then wander Prague for the afternoon/evening
while the Ducati gets new tires at Moto Mechanik map

Hotel: Arkada Hotel Prague €65 online booking

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:56am66.5breakfast and talking to Kathi
9:02am27.229 km63
9:32am6.34 km42
9:44am8.46 km41
9:54am37.432 km52
10:36am15.113 km53
10:54am47.246 km59
11:44am15.413 km49
12:00pm1.8photos in trees
12:01pm7.46 km47
12:09pm16.8 lunch break with skinny dipping swimmers
12:26pm17.817 km56
12:46pm4.24 km58
12:53pm15.812 km45
1:10pm36.730 km48
1:47pm101.5 new tires at MotoMechanik
3:28pm8.76 km39
3:41pm26.06 km~3 traffic + 6km ride averaging only 3 kph
8h10m4h10m moving213 km51.2 kph51% moving, 240 minutes of breaks

Wed, Jun 14, Prague to Ostrava Czechia (day3)

Prague to Ostrava 6h2m 351km avoid highways

Hotel: Penzion Start Ostrava Guesthouse Slavíkova 6055/14, Ostrava, 708 00, Czech Republic

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
8:08am66.574 km66
9:18am19.820 km61
9:38am18.4 Coop fiasco buying milk with a card!
9:56am14.111 km49
10:22am64.062 km58
11:32am56.760 km64
12:29pm37.5lunch break under bridge
1:07pm52.153 km61
2:01pm66.667 km60
3:07pm7.0check out Cirkus Humberto
3:14pm5.13 km39
3:19pm3.0arrive at Penzion Start Ostrava
7h42m5h59m moving351 km58.7 kph78% moving, 103 minutes of breaks

Thu, Jun 15, Ostrava to Kosice Slavakia (day4)

Ostrava to Kosice 7h33m 469km

Hotel: Camp Košice - Route E58

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:02am4.2Getting started
7:07am1.51 km36
7:08am1.9looking for coffee shop
7:10am1.51 km34
7:11am13.7get food from Lidl, milk, OJ, bread
7:25am37.033 km53
8:04am42.946 km65
8:55am0.60 km21
8:57am18.318 km60
9:18am25.524 km57
9:55am26.922 km49
10:23am40.742 km62
11:09am0.90 km17
11:23am17.113 km47
11:42am7.15 km45
11:51am59.860 km61
12:55pm14.718 km75
1:43pm35.338 km65
2:20pm75.778 km62
3:36pm2.9 construction pause
3:39pm30.931 km60
4:10pm1.5 construction pause
4:11pm20.622 km64
4:32pm8.9 arrived
4:41pm0.20 km14parking the bike
4:41pm8.9 arrived
9h47m7h19m moving443 km60.6 kph75% moving, 148 minutes of breaks

Fri Jun 16 Kosice to Budapest Hungary (day5)

Kosice to Budapest 5h46m 303km

Hotel: Maverick Hostel & Ensuites Budapest

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:33am19.018 km56
8:04am18.018 km61
8:24am65.957 km52
9:55am29.525 km51
10:34am28.920 km42
11:08am9.99 km51
11:21am2.52 km51
11:28am14.815 km59
11:52am18.514 km45
12:19pm30.632 km62
1:16pm119.8111 km56
8h12m5h46m moving314 km54.4 kph70% moving, 145 minutes of breaks

Sat Jun 17 Budapest to Pécs Hungary (day6)

Budapest to Pécs 5h58m 418km

Hotel: Centrum Apartmanház Pécs

Up early, wrote for a while. very flat pillows and no blackout, but I was tired enough to sleep anyway.
TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:27am28.522 km47
8:09am91.4114 km75
9:42am59.855 km56
10:57am22.025 km67
11:53am40.150 km75
12:38pm65.672 km66
7h45m6h18m moving414 km65.8 kph81% moving, 87 minutes of breaks
414 km (65.8 kph 131 max) moving of the time 6h18m out of 7h45m total elapsed time
------------------ segments ---------------------
stop:    0-  29    3m05s at 2023-06-16 07:29    getting ready to go, rode off at 7:32am
ride:   29- 234   19m02s 18 km 56.2 kph
stop:  234- 360   11m45s at 2023-06-16 07:51    gas stop before the border
ride:  360- 554   18m01s 18 km 61.0 kph
stop:  554- 576    2m02s at 2023-06-16 08:21    border pics
ride:  576-1282 1h05m53s 57 km 51.7 kph
stop: 1282-1553   25m20s at 2023-06-16 09:29    beautiful Latte coffee break in xxx, helpful waitress speaks English, old money, card works
ride: 1553-1870   29m30s 25 km 50.6 kph
stop: 1870-1972    9m21s at 2023-06-16 10:24    buy vingette at Shell Station  $12.66 for 10 days, just paper
ride: 1972-2284   28m55s 20 km 41.6 kph
stop: 2284-2345    5m41s at 2023-06-16 11:02    roadside pics
ride: 2345-2452    9m57s 9 km 51.4 kph
stop: 2452-2479    2m31s at 2023-06-16 11:18    roadside pano
ride: 2479-2506    2m33s 2 km 51.3 kph
stop: 2506-2553    4m26s at 2023-06-16 11:23    observatory break
ride: 2553-2711   14m51s 15 km 59.3 kph
stop: 2711-2816    9m44s at 2023-06-16 11:42    photosphere
ride: 2816-3015   18m32s 14 km 44.8 kph
stop: 3015-3103    8m19s at 2023-06-16 12:10    gas stop before turning onto 24
ride: 3103-3431   30m39s 32 km 62.4 kph
stop: 3431-3713   26m18s at 2023-06-16 12:49       lunch break
ride: 3713-4997 1h59m46s 111 km 55.9 kph           long hot ride in traffic
stop: 4997-5270   25m25s at 2023-06-16 15:16       arrived 3:16pm
------------------ total movement ---------------------
314 km (54.4 kph 138 max) moving 70% of the time 5h46m out of 8h12m total elapsed time
My room had a great view over the main street right in the center of Budapest. The hostel is a really big building with a huge entry way. You type a code to get in from the street, go up some stairs, go through another door then up some more stairs, then code again, up some more stairs and you are at reception. Tibor (Hungarian guy at the desk) check me in and was helpful drawing what to see and where to eat on a map. The border crossing was no-op. Boris says "shengen". Day after tomorrow when I go into Romania and then Serbia will be the days with potential for problems. Dogs on the road, one a puppy, shepard mix. Pavement is a patchwork of bumps. Sudden change from Slovakia. Poor farming area. Lots of broken down houses. Very little traffic, like ~5 cars per hr. Lots and lots of dogs and some horses in the road. Lots of puppies. Cute! Into towns, some much richer. The riding is as beautiful as Slovakia, but with worse pavement. Almost no speed cameras, so less stressful managing speed in the towns. Can do 55 kph without worrying if you are over 50. In Eger I was paced by a police car for about 5 km. He just rode right next to me making sure I knew he was there. We did 48 kph +/- 1. Some of the Hungarian money from Nicole is "old" and no good anymore. I have 500 old Forints and 4000 new ones. But card is working in gas stations and the one coffee shop. The Maveric Hostel is very nice and well located but $103 a night for private room. Used up my Forint converted from Czech crowns. Again saw men carrying babies on the street. Cranes, landing, nest of 4, one in field, how do they avoid getting electrocuted? 314 km
TimeMinutesKmavg speed kphComment
7:33am 19m02s18 km56 kph
7:52am 11m45sgas stop before the border
8:04am 18m01s18 km61 kph
8:22am 2m02sborder pics
8:24am1h05m53s57 km52 kph
9:30am 25m20sbeautiful Latte coffee break in xxx, helpful waitress speaks English, old money, card works
9:55am 29m30s25 km51 kph
10:24am 9m21s
10:34am 28m55s20 km42 kph
11:03am 5m41s
11:08am 9m57s9 km51 kph
11:18am 2m31s
11:21am 2m33s2 km51 kph
11:23am 4m26s
11:28am 14m51s15 km59 kph
11:43am 9m44s
11:52am 18m32s14 km45 kph
12:11pm 8m19s
12:19pm 30m39s32 km62 kph
12:50pm 26m18s
1:16pm1h59m46s111 km56 kph
8h12m elapsed 5h46m moving (70%) 2h26m stopped54.4 kph avg
TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:27am28.522 km47 kph
8:09am91.4114 km75 kph
9:42am59.855 km56 kph
10:57am22.025 km67 kph
11:53am40.150 km75 kph
12:38pm65.672 km66 kph
7h45m6h18m moving414 km65.8 kph81% moving, 87 minutes of breaks

Sun Jun 18 Pécs Hungary to Belgrade Serbia via Croatia (day7)

Pécs to Belgrade, 7h10m 419km

Hotel: Good People Design Hostel

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
8:00am72.082 km68
9:21am3.63 km48
9:28am48.037 km47
10:20am85.8101 km71
11:46am20.3Lunch under a bridge
12:06pm26.031 km72
12:34pm1.82 km58
12:38pm0.60 km34
12:41pm30.831 km61
1:14pm9.610 km61
1:33pm9.39 km58
1:45pm9.89 km53
1:57pm8.47 km52
2:09pm1.10 km22
2:12pm6.34 km34
2:18pm5.5Tried to stop for a picnic, but the mosquitos!
2:23pm23.126 km67Riding down out of the mountains
2:46pm8.8Gas stop, payment success
2:55pm43.853 km73Freeway into Belgrade
3:39pm10.3Stopped at the wrong Hostel, Belgrade Soul
3:49pm7.32 km13Rode to Good People Design Hostel
8h31m6h29m moving410 km63.2 kph76% moving, 122 minutes of breaks
410 km (63.3 kph 126 max) moving of the time 6h28m out of 9h11m total elapsed time

Mon Jun 19 Belgrade Serbia to Severin Romania (day8)

Belgrade to Severin 4h57m 285km

Hotel: Casa Budulan hotel +40744632233 and on priceline. Also, has several hotels here. Hotel/Homestay requires cash payment. There's an ATM at Banca Transilvania [44.62730301085157, 22.651786576590272]

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:51am2.8 map
7:54am10.74 km21
8:05am1.9 map
8:07am0.40 km21
8:07am4.5 map
8:12am35.937 km63
8:47am26.9 map
9:14am2.02 km68
9:16am1.6 map
9:18am21.918 km49
9:40am1.5 map
9:41am66.275 km68
10:47am2.0 map
10:49am8.69 km65
10:58am6.3 map
11:04am40.747 km70
11:45am2.4 map
11:47am0.81 km46
11:48am2.6 map
11:51am34.622 km38
12:25pm2.7 map
12:28pm2.82 km42
12:31pm1.8 map
12:33pm8.47 km52
12:41pm13.7 map
12:55pm20.119 km57
1:15pm1.7 map
1:17pm23.017 km44
1:40pm1.6 map
1:41pm6.89 km76
1:48pm29.9 map
2:18pm17.023 km80
2:35pm8.5 map
2:44pm2.21 km34
2:46pm3.8 map
2:50pm9.712 km73
2:59pm8.6 map
3:08pm4.22 km25
3:12pm2.1 map
7h23m4h57m moving295 km59.5 kph67% moving, 146 minutes of breaks
Got lost getting out of Belgrade. Google maps wasn't routing, seems like something to do with the floods warning or maybe the route didn't start with "my position". Later I got it corrected by adding a new starting point, but it still caused a lot of confusion leaving the city. I took a toll road for a while. Worked out OK because paying by card worked. Some nice folks at the highway rest stop gas station said it would probably work and that reduced my worries.

Tue Jun 20 Severin to Sibiu via Transalpina Pass (day9)

Severin to Sibiu via Transalpina 9h19m, 428km

T House Conf#2536067277

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
8:20am65.564 km59
9:25am8.9 map
9:34am24.619 km47
9:59am5.1 map
10:04am7.96 km44
10:12am2.1 turning onto the dirt road
10:14am4.21 km20
10:18am5.6 at the blocked dam road
10:24am4.82 km20
10:28am5.0 at the road that goes under the lake
10:33am22.68 km20
10:56am3.4 logger guys
10:59am17.98 km26
11:17am7.8 cross-roads and signs for various destinations
11:25am12.75 km24
11:38am10.2 I'm pooped stop, drink some water, etc
11:48am0.80 km23
11:49am2.9 steep rocky road stop
11:52am53.637 km41
12:45pm1.9 map
12:47pm10.88 km43
12:58pm14.6 map
1:13pm1.71 km48
1:14pm3.8 map
1:18pm15.912 km46
1:34pm1.6 map
1:36pm60.066 km66
2:36pm25.1 map
3:01pm20.018 km55
3:21pm3.4 map
3:24pm36.832 km52
4:01pm26.8 map
4:28pm20.924 km70
4:49pm1.7 map
4:50pm15.217 km68
5:06pm4.8 map
5:10pm1.92 km60
5:12pm3.0 map
5:15pm41.932 km46
5:57pm11.3 map
6:09pm21.916 km44
6:30pm4.5 map
10h47m7h46m moving395 km50.9 kph72% moving, 180 minutes of breaks
Time change, now GMT+3 Coffee at the hotel, they made me a Latte Machiato Got gas on my way out of town, quick stop, paid cash. Chased by dogs several times. Most dogs are calm, but some bark and give chase. Saw carts pulled by horses. Crusifix with skull and crossbones, seen that several times, took a picture once. Nice road, wide, smooth, fast. Great views. Looks a lot like California Google maps turns me off onto a dirt road. Looks like the paved road ends. The dirt road isn't too bad at first. Looks like it goes up and across the dam to bypass a closed section of the paved road. Cool. But no, the dam top is gated off. Maybe up to the end of the lake. Two big trucks coming the other way make me think this is a brief bypass. Drive to the end, big puddles, but the road goes into the lake. Shit! Keep going or go back. Surely this rejoins the paved road soon. Keep going. Meet some logging guys. They want to drink alcohol with me. I show them my phone and get help. He tells me which way to go and it seems like I should see pavement soon. Road gets worse and worse. Looks like maybe 50+ km still to go. How far have I come so far? Seems like a lot. Walked around town and had dinner with Daniel. This is the unpaved section I did, about 43km

Wed Jun 21 Sibiu to Brașov Romania via Transfăgărășan (day10)

Sibiu to Brașov 6h41m, 353km

Hotel: Casa Postăvarului

Expected to ride with Daniel, but something came up and he couldn't leave early. But then he left later and just went highway, over the top, and found me buying cheese at a roadside stand. We rode together well, took lots of pictures at the top, and had lunch at Abo... trout farm/resort/restaurant. Very good. Looking forward to another trip to Romania, perhaps with Romania Motorcycle Tours. "Non stop" = "open 24x7" Met a large Albanian gypsie family on 4 large carts each drawn by two horses and loaded with random stuff heading to a flea market down the road. At the flea market, there was a lot of random crap and a LOT of old bicycles. I stopped and got a picture of one of the carts and the kids swarmed me saying "ban, ban, ban". They had maybe 2 words of English and the kid said ban, food, ban, food. So I opened my tailpack and gave them a liter of yoghurt. Then I tried talking to the driver of the next cart. He said Albania family and money for food. I gave them 100 Lei which is about $20. They didn't stop bugging me, so I gave the woman with the yoghurt 50 Lei, then put my helmet back on and rode off. They seemed pretty happy. Up the south side of Transfagarasan, the view got really intersting with very steep streams coming from the last of the snowpack. Daniel said he was up there Fri, Sat, and Sun and the road wasn't open yet. Today is Wednesday. They just opened it Monday morning. What incredible luck I've been having on this trip. At the top, the lake freezes and they build an ice hotel on the lake. Lot of dirt on the road, traffic hasn't swept it away yet. Daniel said "You are pretty fast and a very good rider". I was staying with him on the descent and after a while he waved me past. He dropped back a few 100m. I was pushing just a little bit but still being very careful with the road surface.

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
8:25am1.9 map
8:27am33.038 km69
9:00am11.3 map
9:12am34.342 km74
9:46am13.8 map
9:60am53.451 km58
10:53am3.4 map
10:57am7.95 km38
11:04am21.2 map
11:26am6.33 km31
11:32am2.1 map
11:34am22.523 km61
11:57am7.7 map
12:04pm4.63 km40
12:09pm4.4 map
12:13pm41.436 km52
12:55pm3.3 map
12:58pm12.812 km54
1:11pm3.9 map
1:15pm2.92 km32
1:18pm15.6 map
1:33pm9.07 km47
1:42pm16.3 map
1:59pm9.77 km44
2:08pm1.8 map
2:10pm19.622 km68
2:30pm85.2 map
9h17m5h50m moving348 km59.6 kph63% moving, 207 minutes of breaks
Google said 6h41m actual was 5h50m, so I was 12.7% faster

Thu Jun 22 Brașov to Satu Mare Romania (Transilvania) (day11)

Brașov to Satu Mare 6h46m 422km

Hotel: Casa Transilvania in Satu Mare

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:35am11.8 map
7:47am10.86 km31
7:58am10.7 map
8:09am114.7142 km74
10:03am21.9 map
10:25am89.987 km58
11:55am2.5 map
11:58am41.444 km64
12:39pm4.2 map
12:43pm93.4108 km69
2:17pm20.8 buy milk, remove suit, talk to Victor
7h33m6h15m moving414 km66.2 kph83% moving, 78 minutes of breaks
Got out early, no parking ticket. Gas and gas station coffee. Restaraunt for a nice latte machiatto. Rolling hills and beautiful farms. Lots of Stork nests, one with three maybe four babies. Most have one baby. But some have two or more. Parking is on the opposite side as USA, facing traffic. You can tell the difference between a parked car and one that is simply stopped for some other reason by which way they are facing. Military convoy heading towards Ukraine. Looks like instant bridge parts. Had a nice conversation with a kid (Victor) who was very interested in motorcycles. Keen on the differences between BMW, Ducati, and Honda. Took his picture sitting on the bike, got his email address, sent him a link to Victor's English is really good, excellent vocabulary and perfect grammar, just a bit slow and careful speaking. Very hot going into Satu Mari, 29+ and the last 50km are flat and boring. Much of the ride today was fast with very good roads and not too many slow town crossings. But there were more towns near the end as it was getting hot and quite humid. Didn't stop for many pictures. My right fore-arm is hurting. Started on the dirt 2 days ago. Getting worse. Too many days without rest. Google said 6h46m actual was 6h15m, so I was 7.6% faster

Fri Jun 23 Satu Mare Romania to Bratislava Slovakia (day12)

Satu Mare to Bratislava 7h6m 515km

47.797602861676985, 22.887997492099093, Casa Transvania
47.50873786849323, 22.102396333012127, DN19C
47.57746573631566, 20.996590937126623, Hwy33
47.79295505393412, 18.740451288846906, Border Esztergom
48.14409803152652, 17.113193567162458, City Center Best Place Bratislava
Satu Mare to Bratislava 6h16m 512km

47.797602861676985, 22.887997492099093, Casa Transvania
47.720386918831935, 18.85147374560381, Duna Ipoly Park
48.14409803152652, 17.113193567162458, City Center Best Place Bratislava
Hotel City Center Best Place Bratislava is prepaid but 1.7 euros tax due at the property Conf #3473002404

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
7:41am3.2 getting ready to leave Casa Transilvania
7:44am11.111 km58
7:55am6.5 Rompetrol gas stop right before the border crossing, used up almost all my cash Lei
8:01am1.20 km22
8:02am50.5 almost and hour to cross the border
8:53am122.8210 km103
10:56am30.5 highway rest area gas stop plus coffee and pastry and curious trucker
11:26am55.0106 km116
12:21pm2.5 Turning up into Duna-Ipoly Nemzeti Park (Traffic stop, not a rest break)
12:24pm25.024 km58
12:49pm11.5 Photo stop in the woods of Duna-Ipoly Nemzeti Park
1:00pm10.010 km57
1:10pm3.7 Shell gas stop before leaving Hungary
1:14pm3.52 km38
1:17pm2.8 photo stop pics of bridge to Slovakia on the Danube
1:20pm59.168 km69
2:19pm30.7 COOP jednota food and drinks break
8h29m5h59m moving513 km85.8 kph70% moving, 150 minutes of breaks
Got out early after Casa Transilvania served me a cup of coffee and I paid the bill. Bought gas with the last of my Lei at the border inside of Romania, then got in the "all passports" line, not the EU, EAA, ?? line. The line was moving extremely slowly. Only 5 cars in front of me, but it still took 50 minutes. The first booth was leaving Romania, and that went quickly. But the second booth was entering Hungary and they couldn't fathom how I started in Vienna, had a motorcycle from Switzerland, was leaving Romania without them being able to find the stamp in my passport for entering Romania. And I had no stamps for entering Shengen because Vienna didn't stamp it either. With lots of walking around and consulting everyone under the sun, they finally let me in. Blasted along the M3 at 125--135 kph for 3 hours with one break to buy gas using my Hungarian Forint. I also got a cold latte and a crunchy chocolate + cinnamon bun. After eating and drinking my coffee, a truck driver was looking at my bike. His only word was "Ducati". His motorcycle is an older GSX-R 1100. I had him sit on the bike and took his picture with his phone. He was delighted. The xxx forest was a nice break from freeway blasting. Temperature was up to 33C, so I took off my suit in the forest and kept it off for the rest of the afternoon. Hot. 29C in the forest was a relief, but it was back up to 31 for most of the ride into Bratislava. Again topped up gas using all my Forint change 2440ft. Parked outside the apartments (creatively) mimicing what other motorcycles seem to be doing. Tried to buy parking from a lot across the street, but the attendant is an ass-hole. I think it's 1.5 euro per hour or 42 euro for 24 hours (1.5*24 = 36 so that's a shitty deal). I'd like to buy 14 hours for 21 but he doesn't want to deal with me. And his handwriting is unintelligible. Maybe it's 12 euro for 24 hours. But he won't attempt to understand the question. He won't read a translation from my phone. OK fuck him, I'll park for free. Hope it's OK.

Sat Jun 24 Bratislava to Klagenfurt am Wörthersee Austria (day13)

Let's do this is 2 parts: 1) Avoid highways 2) A1 to Klagenfurt am Wörthersee 5h52m 339km 40m 59km via A2 for a total of 6h32m and 398km *** CANCELLED by the host *** to AirBnb Alter Pl. 31, 9020 Klagenfurt am Wörthersee, Österreich 10-day vignette: 5,80 Euro buy at gas station in Austria or if avoid highways all the way, 6h58m 401km (24 minutes and 3km longer) Pension Wachau Wilfriedgasse 19, 9020 Klagenfurt, Austria

TimeMinuteskmkph avgComment
8:41am3.3 getting ready to depart
8:45am38.238 km60
9:23am3.7 Gas at Shell station
9:27am34.036 km63
10:01am10.0 Coffee at OMV
10:11am11.014 km79
10:22am1.5 just checking the map
10:23am84.594 km67
11:48am2.7 self-serve automated gas stop
11:50am30.734 km66
12:21pm1.9 pictures in the forest
12:23pm33.532 km58
12:56pm20.9 more pictures in the forest and lunch with bears
1:17pm57.555 km57
2:15pm3.3 still pictures in the forest
2:18pm47.347 km60
3:05pm28.1 cemetary park Friedhof Wolfsberg
3:34pm31.936 km68
4:05pm2.5 Hotel with a fabulous view Gasthof Karawankenblick Völkermarkt
4:08pm10.715 km85
4:19pm2.5 Final gas stop Socar
7h59m6h28m moving407 km62.9 kph81% moving, 91 minutes of breaks
Google said 7h4m actual was 6h28m, so I was 8.5% faster
Budapest to Graz Austria 7h36m, 431km

Got out pretty early. Was hoping to get coffee in the break room, but it didn't open until 8:00am. Got bread and ham&cheese croissant at the Lidl next door and ate that while talking with Kathi. The border was really soon and I was worried about getting gas in Austria. I shouldn't have worried. Austria has more gas stations than anywhere! Huge wind farm. Great roads in the forests. Austria is really made for motorcycles. A really fine day. Discussion about bears with Joe while eating from the tail pack on an isolated road in the forest. Cemetary Hotel with a really nice view. Drove pretty fast and took an extra break near the end. I'm getting tired. Mixed feelings about approaching the end of this epic adventure.

Sun Jun 25 Klagenfurt Austria to Ampezzo Italy (day14)

Klagenfurt to Ampezzo Italy 4h32m, 235km

Albergo Garni Barancio Via Corte 17, 32041 Auronzo di Cadore, Italy Conf #2573075841

Mon Jun 26 Italy to Strengen Austria (day15)

Ampezzo Italy to Strengen Austria ~6h45m 325km

Tue Jun 27 Strengen to Zug Switzerland (day16)

Strengen to Zug 3h30m 183km

visit with Joe & Bridget then to airport hotel in Zug
ibis budget Zurich Airport
Train from Zug
9:01pm EC to Zurich, then tram 23 stops to Hotel.
4 min tram or 26 min Walk to departures

Original plan

Total distance and time  (14 riding days)

  Mon Jun 12 Freising to Straziste Czechia                                 8h51m  519 km with option to cut back 1 hr
  Tue Jun 13 To Prague, then wander Prague for the afternoon/evening       4h13m  221 km
  Wed Jun 14 Prague to Ostrava                                             6h02m  351 km
  Thu Jun 15 Ostrava to Kosice Slavakia                                    7h33m  469 km
  Fri Jun 16 Kosice to Budapest Hungary                                    5h46m  303 km
  Sat Jun 17 Budapest to Pécs                                              6h     418 km
  Sun Jun 18 Pécs to Belgrade Serbia                                       7h10m  419 km
  Mon Jun 19 Belgrade to Severin Romania                                   5h     285 km
  Tue Jun 20 Severin to Ponoarele                                          6h37m  354 km
  Wed Jun 21 Ponoarele to Brașov                                           9h     436 km   **LONG**
  Thu Jun 22 Brașov to Casi Mare Romania                                   6h31m  446 km
  Fri Jun 23 Casi Mare to Budapest                                         6h     356 km
  Sat Jun 24 Budapest to Graz Austria                                      7h36m  431 km
  Sun Jun 25 Graz to Ampezzo Italy                                         7h6m   375 km
  Mon Jun 26 Italy to Strengen Austria                                     ~6h   ~360 km
  Tue Jun 27 Strengen to Zug, visit, train to ZUR                          3h42m  192 km
                             totals:  103 hrs ~5935 km (3710 miles)  370 km/day avg,
                                      max 519 km in one day, seven days exceed 400 km
                                      six days exceed seven hours of google time
                                      Italy_2022 was 290km/day avg and a very long day was 405km