I learned something about stringing together several ferries yesterday. You cannot leave the schedules to chance without incurring long wait delays. Today I planned and looked up the schedules of all four ferries I had to take today. I successfully made all of them.
Breakfast at Scandic Victoria was really good. And the tiny room was comfortable enough. Maybe I shouldn't be disappointed in this hotel. With plenty of good coffee, my mood brightens. I leave 15 minutes ahead of my plan with a comfortable margin to make the first ferry.
Today's riding was a lot of forest, fjords, ferries, and waterfalls. From Florø I had to backtrack 15km before I could head head north towards the first ferry terminal. About 1 hour into the ride, up in the forest, I came across a pretty majestic waterfall called Brudesløret dropping down a granite face into the long lake Haukåvatnet. With plenty of margin to make the ferry, I stop for a bit to take some pictures. The sky is ragged clouds and it's a little cold out, but it doesn't like rain. Also, I've learned now to start wearing too many clothes to avoid getting chilled. The riding is always colder than I expect starting out.
I get to Isane ferjekai (the first ferry dock) with 25 minutes to spare. I'm the first one waiting. This one will be a short 3.8 km. I check Google Maps for the time from here to the next ferry stop and it says 1 hour and the ferry should be at the other side 1h30m before, so I'll have a comfortable margin on the next leg. There are only about 5 cars and one other motorcycle on this crossing. A Norweigian guy on his K1600 monster six cylinder BMW.
About half way to the next ferry, I come across the most nicely planted sod-roof house I've seen ever. I'm trying to imagin a gardener tweaking the weed population on top of this house. Some of the sod and planting is wearing away on the windward eve and top edge. These roofs require a lot of maintenance.
Around a fjord, I count more than 10 waterfalls. I made a diagram to help you visualize just how many there are with significant streams cascading down the granite mountain-sides all around me.
I make it to the Koparneset ferjekai (2nd ferry crossing for today) with a half hour to spare. Just like Google Maps said I would. Nice. This time there are a few cars ahead of me. This is a 7 minute, 2.8 km crossing. After that, its 40 minutes to the next one. But no rush this time as the next one departs every 30 minutes, all day. I'll top up my gas after disembarking, before heading further. The sky is getting clearer as the clouds dissipate as mid-day approaches.
I got lucky with my timing for the 3rd ferry, rolling on just as I arrived, so no boarding pictures. I talked to a guy with a red, 6th generation VFR and showed him Nicky's handstand-on-bumblebee picture. He was suitably impressed.
With just one ferry remaining on my route for today, and that one also running every 30 minutes, I'm relaxed about the riding schedule and ready to stop for more pictures. Lots of mirror fjords under an interesting sky and several bridges. I get stopped for xx minutes waiting for some highway work, but I'm not worried about this causing me to miss a ferry. Yay! The road-work stop was at an interesting river. Shortly after, I queued up for the last ferry which was in the process of unloading. Perfect timing again.
With four ferries behind me, I entered the town of Molde. This is a Sunday at 3pm. I got fuel and looked for a grocery store. I did find a big grocery store, but it was weirdly only half open. One side was operating as a sort of convenience store, and the rest of the store was blocked off by pallets of stock. I wasn't able to buy milk, but I was able to buy some knekkebrød seed crackers.
From Molde, I rode the last 15 km to Rødseth gårdsovernatting. I did an experiment this time by not booking my place in advance. I thought I would deal directly with this rural cabin place after seeing how unlikely it was to be fully booked. In fact, I think I might be the only guest tonight. I got a tiny cabin which was really nice and comfortable despite having a remote bathroom and full kitchen in an adacent barn. Super cool, peaceful and low-cost lodging option. I highly recommend this place. Super nice hostess too. And an interesting cat!
The original plan for this day was Ålesund to Trondheim (6h50m, 367km). I started out 150 km short, and
ended the day near Molde 206 km short of Trondheim, so now I'm 50km further behind than yesterday.
It's not horrible, but I feel like I can't let up and rest yet.
Florø, Norway to Rødseth gårdsovernatting near Molde, Norway
Florø, Norway to Rødseth gårdsovernatting near Molde, Norway (6h28m, 318km)
| Time | Minutes | km | kph avg | Comment |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7:54am | 1.9 | packing the scooter | ||
| 7:56am | 24.4 | 25 km | 62 kph | backtrack 15km then head north |
| 8:21am | 0.7 | map | ||
| 8:22am | 58.3 | 65 km | 67 kph | |
| 9:20am | 27.0 | Isane Ferjekai 25m early | ||
| 9:47am | 12.1 | 4 km | 17 kph | |
| 9:59am | 1.3 | disembarking at Stårheim ferjekai | ||
| 10:00am | 56.6 | 63 km | 66 kph | |
| 10:57am | 34.5 | Koparneset ferjekai 35m early | ||
| 11:31am | 9.7 | 2 km | 14 kph | |
| 11:41am | 0.3 | disembarking at Larsnes ferjekai | ||
| 11:42am | 5.1 | 5 km | 54 kph | |
| 11:47am | 5.3 | YX Larsnes fuel stop | ||
| 12:29pm | Hareid ferjekai | |||
| 11:52am | 60.4 | 44 km | 44 kph | |
| 12:53pm | 1.8 | Sulesund ferjekai | ||
| 12:54pm | 8.9 | 9 km | 60 kph | |
| 1:03pm | 1.4 | pretty inlet picture | ||
| 1:05pm | 23.5 | 23 km | 59 kph | |
| 1:28pm | 7.0 | pic at Straumsbrua on Fv661 | ||
| 1:35pm | 13.6 | 15 km | 65 kph | |
| 1:49pm | 2.0 | somebody's driveway? | ||
| 2:01pm | 2 | brief stop for road work | ||
| 1:51pm | 31.0 | 31 km | 60 kph | |
| 2:22pm | 14.6 | Furneset ferjekai | ||
| 2:36pm | 28.8 | 11 km | 23 kph | |
| 3:05pm | 4.3 | disembarking at Molde Ferjekai | ||
| 3:10pm | 12.3 | 5 km | 25 kph | |
| 3:22pm | 10.4 | Circle K Bolsønes fuel stop | ||
| 3:33pm | 2.2 | 1 km | 21 kph | |
| 3:35pm | 7.5 | checking out Molde | ||
| 3:42pm | 18.0 | 16 km | 52 kph | |
| 4:01pm | 2.2 | Rødseth gårdsovernatting | ||
| 8h04m | 6h06m moving | 321 km | 52.6 kph | 76% moving, 118 minutes of breaks |
| Google time (6h45m) + 20% | ||||
I'm trying to imagin a gardener tweaking the weed population on top of this house. Some of the sod and planting is wearing away on the windward eve and top edge. These roofs require a lot of maintenance.