2025 Italian Lessons, Sun May 18, 2025

Sunday Festival in Ottana, €1 houses, to Cagliari

CHRIS: Had good coffee in the house, then packed up and rode out on a perfect, warm, blue-sky morning. Back through Tinnura and out into the mountains. Sunday morning, everything is closed.

In the town of Ottana I saw a bunch of people on horses in the street and then an open cafe. Stopped for a coffee and pastry and saw more horses and people in fancy clothes gathering. Took a few pictures, then saw police and caribinari. Walked over and asked what’s up? The caribinari spoke a little English and explained this is the festival of San Nicola, the patron saint of the town church. Biggest of many annual festivals in Ottana. He recommended I stick around to watch. I did and it was quite impressive. The horses are done up with manes tied and tails wrapped, everyone in traditional clothes. Kids on ponies participating. A pair of bulls. All the girls in fancy dresses carrying platters of roses(?).

When the parade was past, I rode on to Volterra which is the Sardegnian town famous for €1 houses. I was expecting a run-down, tired old town. But it wasn’t that! The houses were especially nice and the town seemed quite wealthy. Nice central square, fabulous farms around, incredible views. I think the town just has a very active town council/government that siezes abandoned houses and sells them to people who will live in the spirit of the town.

Lots more great riding through great roads with wonderful views. Not so many bikes out as I expected, but I did see one group with close to 50 riders go by. Worked my way to the coast. All grocery stores are closed on Sunday. Then back towards Cagliari. Through an industrial district and salt evaporation ponds, then into town.

Worst paver road ever for scooter suspension! Tried to buy gas, but cards don’t work. Got to the apartment building about an hour early, then went to find food. Almost nothing open, but did find a “pizzaria” near the stadium. But they only had fish dishes (squid, octopus, muscles, no real fish). The waiter recommended a wine-sauce crab dish, which I really didn;t like. I had tuna and beans. Good but just canned tuna and canned beans. The waiter took pity on me and brought me more tuna and beans after seeing that I didn’t eat the crab dish. Got tiramisu desert (just out of the freezer) but it was good.

Waiter told me about the soccer match. I thought about going, but tickets look pricy at €78. So, just went back, checked in, and uploaded todays pics. Went to bed early after replanning the next two days to remove coastal routes and shorten them up a bit.

KATHI:

Sardegne 2nd full day to Cagliari

Ride Log